Pleats, Brushes and Poetry: Issey Miyake Transforms Menswear in Florence
Florence, vrijdag, 20 juni 2025.
Issey Miyake’s Homme Plissé collection for spring/summer 2026 revealed a layered, artistic approach to men’s fashion, presented at Pitti Uomo in Florence. The collection distinguished itself through its ‘Open Studio’ concept, where each garment told a story of Italian inspiration - from sunset hues to brush-inspired prints. Standout features included multifunctional jackets that transformed into carry bags, asymmetrical cuts with organic pleating techniques, and a colour palette that seemed to capture Tuscan landscapes. The presentation marked not just a fashion show, but a cultural dialogue between Japanese design principles and Italian aesthetics.
Open Studio: A New Design Philosophy
Issey Miyake’s Homme Plissé introduced a groundbreaking ‘Open Studio’ concept at Pitti Uomo, where the brand’s collection is no longer bound by a fixed location or traditional seasonal cycle [4][7]. The collection, named ‘Amid Impasto of Horizons’, represents a shift towards a more nomadic presentation strategy directly inspired by specific locations and local cultural contexts [4].
Artistic Interpretation of Italian Landscape
The collection drew inspiration from the vibrant landscapes of Italy, with colours directly borrowed from locations like Cinque Terre - from ‘Zucchini Flower Orange’ to ‘Lemon Yellow’ [2][5]. Each garment contained at least one pleated element, a signature technique of the Issey Miyake brand [3].
Innovative Clothing Designs
Remarkable designs included an asymmetrical ‘painter’s’ vest with multiple compartments for brushes and painting supplies [6], and jackets that can transform into their own transport bags through origami-like folding movements [5]. The collection combined Japanese and Italian tailoring styles with sustainable materials like recycled polyester [3][7].